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Gypsy And Traveller History In London

By Kate Smith

13/07/2006


In a time when so much lip service is paid to tolerance of difference, there's one group in London whose traditional way of life has been illegal since 1995: Gypsies and Travellers.

Since the Criminal Justice Act of that year it has been forbidden to have a nomadic lifestyle. More than 90% of 'Travelling' communities now live in houses, though even in London, Gypsy sites still remain.

Simon Evans on places in London associated with Romany Gypsies

Simon McKeon on the Gypsies of the Belvedere Marshes

photo shows family standing by hooded waggon
A picture from Bexley Local Studies and Archives Centre of Gypsies c. 1910. These images are comparatively rare in public collections.

The pattern in the UK reflects that of the rest of the world. In his book on Asian nomads, ex-Horniman curator Ken Teague says "Nomadic peoples now form less than one percent of the world's poulation, with many still under considerable pressure to abandon their lifestyles."

Searching for Gypsy and Traveller culture in museums is complex because the culture has traditionally been oral rather than written, and a lifestyle that involves moving about does not generate a huge emphasis on possessions. There is of course a traditional gypsy 'style' but the disappearance for the most part of brightly coloured wagons and headscarves, have led to modern communities being accused of not being 'real' gypsies with a legitimate claim to travel.

Today the subjects of Traveller rights and Traveller history seem closely intertwined. Writers, artists and historians who are either Travellers themselves, or working closely with the Travelling community clearly feel passionately about the future, as well as the past, of Traveller life in Britain. Over the summer, the Finding Romanistan festival formed a telling overview of the Traveller experience across Europe, and is indicative of a renewed urge to document travelling lives.

photo shows old woman in front of traditional gypsy wagon

Photo: Mel Wagner. Part of the recent Traveltopia exhibition.



Gypsy and Traveller Histories In London

The first reference to Gypsies in England is in 1514 when an "Egypcyan" woman, a palm reader, gave evidence at an inquest in Lambeth. Historian and broadcaster Simon Evans tells us "Over subsequent decades there are increasing references to bands of dark skinned and exotically dressed people travelling on horseback throughout the length of Britain." Simon has written for us about places in London that are traditionally associated with Gypsy and Traveller history. Meanwhile Simon McKeon tells us about the Gypsies who lived for a hundred years on the Belvedere Marshes and the politics around their final eviction.

Norman Dodds was MP for Erith and Crayford and a champion of the Gypsy community. Courtesy of Bexley Local Studies and Archive Centre.

photo shows book on gypsy and traveller lifestyle

We have also searched the capital's museums to learn more about this history of Travelling peoples - both in London and across the world.



Gypsy Lives at the V&A

The V&A have a number of photographs and images relating to 19th century Gypsy lives in England. Traditional aspects of Gypsy life were fashionable in 19th century Britain, leading to the founding of the Gypsy Lore Society, which included painters such as Augustus John. The collection also includes pictures of leading Gypsy figures of the time such as Granny Buckland and Bampfylde Moore Carew, the son of a Devon vicar who decided that he preferred a Gypsy lifestyle.

These pictures aren't on display in the museum, but you can see the originals by going to the Prints and Drawings Room at the top of the building, and ordering the images that you'd like to see. You do not need an appointment, and images will generally be put into your hands within 15minutes or so.



Gypsies in Europe

The V&A also has many pictures by Josef Koudelka who took photos of life in his native Czechislovakia - which include pictures of Gypsy life.

The Imperial War Museum's disturbing Holocaust exhibition describes how Gypsies were amongst those earmarked for destruction by the Nazis and the increased harrasment of the communities before being taken to the death camps. Thomas Acton writes more about the genocide of Gypsy cultures here.

drawing shows image of middle aged woman in 18th century clothes

The caption to this 1753 drawing says 'Mary Squires, the Gypsy who was condemned [to death] for stripping Eliza Canning at Endfield wash and has since obtain'd his Majesty's most gracious pardon'. Courtesy of the Guildhall Library. The full account of her trial can still be read at Old Bailey online.

Local London records

The areas of London most strongly connected with Gypsy culture tend to be on the fringes of the capital. Bexley Archive probably has the best record of Gypsy and Traveller histories. Bromley Local Studies Archive also holds a very few pictures, and it may be worth searching archives in the Mitcham area, where there was a regular fair for many years.

The Old Bailey Online chronicles how Gypsies and Travellers who were tried in London from the 18th century onwards. Whilst the site doesn't list all the court cases in one place, it suggests helpful search strategies and terms used to describe Travelling people.

Photo c. Melanie Wagner. The complete exhibition remains available for touring to other venues.

photo shows mother and child

Modern Photography Projects

More recently, there have been a number of projects where Travelling communities have collaborated with photographers to produce images of their lives now. Melanie Wagner's photograph exhibition Traveltopia appeared at galleries in the National Theatre in the summer, and can still be seen online. Meanwhile snaps taken by Traveller children using disposable cameras continue to be on displayed out outdoor venues around London - most recently at Garden Court Chambers, a barrister's set who have a history of defending Travelling communities in the courts. Whilst these photographs act as a social and historical document, the motive behind them is also campaigning - showing a life on the margins in a changing society.

The V&A produced a small series of exhibition boards the lives of travellers in 2000. This is still available to be lent out to small venues - contact the museum for more details.



Nomadic Lifestyles in Asia

The Horniman Museum has extensive collections of material relating to nomadic lifestyles outside of Europe. The collecting expeditions of their curators in the 1980s were in the knowledge that the nomadic way of life was growing harder, and examples scarcer. The objects they purchased are all recent - 19th and 20th century - but they capture a way of life that has not been greatly changed for hundreds of years. You can read more about their collections from across Asia here. They include several whole tents, some with complete sets of contents from bedding to kitchen utensils.



Further Reading

Stopping Places - A Gypsy History of South London and Kent. Simon Evans

Romano Lavo-Lil - A Book of The Gypsy - George Borrow. First published in 1874 it contains 'specimens of Gypsy Poetry, and an account of certain gypseries or places inhabited by them, and of various things relating to Gypsy Life in England'. The whole book is available to read online here

John's Story - Edited by Mary Horner. An account of a mid-20th century Gypsy life, and experiences in the army during the Second World War. The Romany and Traveller FHS Oral History Series - No 2.

Featured Venue

Bexley Local Studies and Archive Centre
Victoria and Albert Museum
Horniman Museum & Gardens

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