The precaution seems a little unnecessary: there aren’t many troops of white people walking through Southall. For some, this walk along London streets will feel like a tourist trip in a foreign country. But tourists can hope for no better guide than Monisha, who has made a career out of sharing the delights of Indian culture.
 |  | Southall has plenty of colourful grocery stalls. Photo Oskar Czerniawski |
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The author of thirteen books about India, a professional chef and a teacher of classical Indian dance, Monisha talks to us about history, mythology, fashion and food as she goes. She tells us that, since she started in January, Southall has come to expect the walk every month.
We start at the Glassy Junction, a symbol of how the Southall Punjabi community has assimilated British culture. Decorated with a giant beer with an Indian drummer on its side, it is the only pub in Britain where you can buy your pint with rupees.
All sorts of produce from the sub-continent can be found in the area's shops. Photo Oskar Czerniawski | |  |
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As with many Indian communities around the world, Southall is dominated by Punjabis and Gujaratis. From North and West India respectively, these were the first groups from the sub-continent to emigrate.
Close to Heathrow airport and with work available at a tyre factory and a bakery, Southall was a natural place for people to settle when they arrived. And as the community grew, shops sprang up to sell the food, clothes and music of their old country.
 | | Bollywood movies feature heavily in the local imagination. Photo Oskar Czerniawski |
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The supermarket we see sells more than leeks and celery. Knobbly, spiky and purple vegetables are piled up with labels that did not enlighten me: Chowlangi, Ravaiya, Gunda, Papdi and Karela. As Monisha explains, with such variety, the Hindus can afford to be vegetarian.
The next stop is the Himalay cinema, which only shows Bollywood films. These are the focus of India’s popular culture. The films don’t just tell stories, they present fashion statements and inform modern moral values. Most of the CDs in Southall’s many music shops are Bollywood soundtracks.
Local jewellery store. Photo Oskar Czerniawski | |  |
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In the foyer of the cinema, Monisha tells us about Divali. The name of the festival translates as ‘row of lamps’ and it is a time for bright lights, huge fireworks and heavy feasting. There is a story for each of its five days, including a practical joke by Vishnu, an important Hindu god.
To teach an arrogant king a lesson, Vishnu took the form of a midget. He asked the king to grant him three steps of land. The king scornfully promised this insignificant favour. Vishnu then grew to his true size. The first step he took covered the whole earth. The second step encompassed the heavens.
 | | From jewellery to music, Southall has it all. Photo Oskar Czerniawski |
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“You promised me a third step,” said the god, “Where shall I put it?” The humbled king answered, “On my forehead.” So Vishnu planted his foot on the king’s head and pushed him down into the underworld. But once a year, the king is allowed back onto earth to share the light of his hard-earned knowledge.
By the end, the walkers have tried Indian sweets, looked at fine Indian silks, seen traditional jewellery and learnt a few gestures of classical Indian dance.
A Southall bus, brought from Pakistan and decorated by its owner to promote his restaurant. Photo Oskar Czerniawski | |  |
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Monisha finishes with a brief word about Hinduism’s many gods: “Behind the various forms, there is one God. It is like white light passing through a prism and breaking into different colours.” You will find many of those colours in Southall.
Walk information
The next two walks will be on January 2nd and February 5th. For both walks, meet at Southall station at 11am, no need to book. Price is £5.50 Further details from London Walks 020 7624 3978 or email london@walks.com.
